Friday, February 22, 2008
A tradition in the western suburbs of Chicago, in what was once a large community of east European immigrants, where other Bohemian restaurants have long since closed and been replaced by restaurants owned by the newest wave of immigrants, this time from Mexico. Klas is one of the few that remains. Fitting therefore that the restaurant, now somewhat of a novelty, features a gift shop that sells Czech jewlery, cookbooks, and their own homemade breads. The food at Klas will bring back memories for anyone who remembers a time when almost all restaurants in the Berwyn and Cicero area offered a side of saurkraut and dumplings with each meal. The food may taste somewhat bland to many but that is what East European food is supposed to taste like and if you want jalapenos, there are many Mexican restaurants in the area that will satisfy. Klas offers good , homecooked food such as potato pancakes, pork tenderloin, roast chicken smoked sausage, and the perenial Czech favorite desert, the kolachy. I am intrigued by the Cicero Cut Sirloin Steak and will continue to ponder what "Cicero cut" could possibly mean. Klas was once (say 25-30 years ago) considered to be the "fancy" restaurant in town but is now rather attainable to most.
Dineometer rating: 90%